Archives:
- Boqueria NYC
I don’t know if I had the usual culinary epiphanies when I lived in France. I remember thinking it very strange that everybody bought UHT instead of fresh milk, and that I was eating all that cheese and losing weight like crazy. But then I’d spent most of my life in a French school, surrounded […]
- The Emperor’s New Sorbet
(Sorbet and agar cube of indeterminate flavours, deep-fried membrillo, olive oil cake and pureed green olive and goat’s cheese sauces)
Two recent events conspired to inspire this review of Barcelona’s avant-garde dessert palace, Espai Sucre.
1. Chez Pim’s scathing review of L’Esguard: “quite possibly the worst meal of [her] life”. (Northern Spain is apparently experimental cuisine hell.)
2. […]
- Bangkok, via Barcelona
I am sitting, swathed in blankets, in a many-coloured but icy living room in Washington, D.C.
I drove here, if you can believe it, to make a dish.
I had planned 20 coffee creme brulees with candied pecans for a seated birthday dinner. Which somehow turned into two pounds of shrimp, buffet-style, in a smoked paprika broth. […]
