Archives:
- Apicius Remix
When I was 18, I spent a spring and summer living with my mother in Italy. In Florence, I remember the jarring, muddy taste of bread without salt (a regional curiosity, which a young Florence Fabricant, invoking Dante, wrote about twenty-six years ago). I remember our favourite cheap lunch spot, with tomatoes like you wouldn’t […]
- Hidden Reserves of Sweetness
The humble pea. I could eat nothing but peas for an entire day, for the price of a single scallop.
But they’re really not so different, the scallop and the pea. Sure, one is considerably more difficult to harvest than the other. Setting aside the whole procurement issue, though, you have two foods that are considered […]

