Archives:
- Fregola Freak
Fregola. I dreamed up all sorts of reasons to justify my conviction that these chewy little guys were named for strawberries. Fregola sounds awfully similar to fragole, doesn’t it? I figured the Sardinians might enjoy switching vowels, much as Sicilians like to do away with final vowels altogether (prosciutt’, soppressat’): those crazy islanders and their […]
- Apicius Remix
When I was 18, I spent a spring and summer living with my mother in Italy. In Florence, I remember the jarring, muddy taste of bread without salt (a regional curiosity, which a young Florence Fabricant, invoking Dante, wrote about twenty-six years ago). I remember our favourite cheap lunch spot, with tomatoes like you wouldn’t […]

