Archives:
- Fleur du Mal Cherry-Chocolate Cake
I was going to name this cake after Becky Sharp, the social-climbing heroine of Vanity Fair. It’s Betty Crocker Devil’s Food made good with stiff-peaked egg whites and a slug of kirsch in the batter. Pillows of chantilly-lightened cherry curd, a necklace of sugar pearls and a tiara of red cherries complete the upgrade.
If the […]
- Fashion Plates
One of the advantages of painting in chocolate over, say, gouache, is that you can lick your fingers. Hell, you can lick the canvas.
I developed this way of amusing myself on a slow night in the pastry kitchen. There was no call to write “Happy Birthday” on the rim of the few dessert plates […]
- A Q, a U, and Barbara Kafka’s Chocolate Pudding
There is a bar my boyfriend and I like to go to called Commonwealth, in Park Slope. It’s become somewhat of a ritual to sit at the bar, play Scrabble and order tacos. He’s never beaten me. Last night, to be fair, it looked like he was going to–but I cut the game short because […]
- Curmudgeon’s Baked Pudding
I hate to bake. I need to interact with my food at all times as it cooks. To place my faith in a printed recipe and my dish behind closed doors is almost too much to ask of me. Not to mention the sheer tedium of weighing sugar and sieving flour.
I eat chocolate exactly once […]

