Archives:
- Switching Allegiances In Brighton Beach
I didn’t want to like Café Glechik.
Every fanatic wants to believe that he alone understands the object of his devotion. When I first read Peter Meehan’s review (”For the Love of a Russian Dumpling”), I scoffed. How could this neophyte possibly appreciate the delicate nuances of Russian cooking? What the rookie Russophile orders, I reasoned, […]
- Fregola Freak
Fregola. I dreamed up all sorts of reasons to justify my conviction that these chewy little guys were named for strawberries. Fregola sounds awfully similar to fragole, doesn’t it? I figured the Sardinians might enjoy switching vowels, much as Sicilians like to do away with final vowels altogether (prosciutt’, soppressat’): those crazy islanders and their […]
- Avoid These Products, And Three Unhappy Questions
I apologize in advance for what is, in many ways, an unhappy post.
I know food blogs are supposed to be places of joy and light; of indulgent spouses, white-balanced photography and twinkly-eyed children with uncommonly adventurous appetites.
Well, I’m not one for writing to market, so get ready for some food blog chiaroscuro.
The truth is, since […]

