Archives:
- And Now For Something Completely Revolting
I try to be unflappable in the kitchen. Generally, it’s only the sight of my own blood that unsteadies me. It’s not much fun to devein still-wiggling shrimp, or watch a decapitated lobster dance the quadrille, but I try not to get sentimental about it.
Still, everyone has their limit. Mine is peeling tongues.
All this hubbub […]
- Three Quick Lunches For A Rushed Sensualist
Quick need not mean slapdash; convenient need not imply “convenience foods”. I eat an awful lot of lunches alone in my apartment, and I don’t need company to justify eating well.
I like to boil down leftover rice to make plain congee, a Chinese rice porridge with the consistency of oatmeal. Like grits, congee may be […]
- Economy Meats: Less Economical Than You Think
In the six hours it took me to prepare this dish, I considered several different angles for this post. In the end, none was so eloquent as my boyfriend throwing up at the dinner table. Literally. (I’m not one of those people who misuse the word “literally”.)
What went wrong, Mario Batali?
- A Pilgrimage, Of Sorts
Okra-cornmeal fritters with “comeback” sauce.
I first learned of Kenny Shopsin in 2002, through Calvin Trillin’s piece for the New Yorker. At the time, I was not living in New York; I was wasting away in the culinary wilderness that is Scotland.
I wasn’t really impressed by Mr. Shopsin’s shunning of publicity or of the public. It’s […]
