When Boyfriends Cook

Even in our post-feminist age, every relationship has inequalities. A successful relationship is one that negotiates those inequalities, however fragile and intricate the balance.

For example, my boyfriend went to a better university than I did. Therefore, I use his varsity sweatshirt as cold-weather PJs and attend Harvard in my sleep. The solution relies, to be sure, on a fairly juvenile mindset (mine), but it works.

My boyfriend is a magazine editor. On the rare occasions (OK, sole occasion) that I have allowed him to edit my work, he has brought unprecedented clarity to my dense and labored prose. And that’s fine by me, because I know that when he gets home every night, I serve up unprecedented goodness on our kitchen table.

Every once in a while, though, he gets it into his head that he’s going to make dinner.

The kitchen is my territory, and it’s hard to relinquish control. Why run to the trash can with every parsley stem, I want to ask, when you could set up a garbage bowl? Unevenly chopped onions are bound to burn, don’t you know? You could fit another liter of water in that pasta pot…and you did remember to salt it, right? Even when I manage to hold my tongue, my beady, critical eye is still following my boyfriend around the kitchen, and he knows it.

If you are in love with an alpha cook, don’t throw in the apron just yet. I’m going to let you in on a little secret: give a kitchen bully like me a glass of wine and a few minutes to get over myself, and I actually enjoy sitting down to a meal prepared by someone else. If you think I hold you to high standards, the standards to which I subject myself are a hundred times higher. Which is why, as long as it’s not too frequent an occurrence, a dinner unsullied by my own blood, sweat and tears can come as a delicious relief.

That being said, the novelty of being cooked for does not function as a Get Out Of Jail Free card for the culinarily incompetent. I once had the misfortune of attending a dinner party hosted by vegetarians who don’t drink–a deadly combination, you’ll agree. I don’t like the couple, and I’m pretty sure they hate me, so I don’t mind telling you what they served for dessert: a halved and literally half-baked butternut squash, unadorned but for a self-serve bottle of sugar-free Aunt Jemima. Three years later, I’m still grimacing.

Fortunately for me, my boyfriend is far from incompetent in the kitchen. His bachelor’s techniques could use a little developing, maybe, but he has a natural instinct for roasting meat and an encouragingly heavy hand with garlic. His turkey meatballs were really rather good–I’m about to tuck into the leftovers–and if he slightly overcooked the linguine and misidentified lollo rosso as romaine, well, it only reinforced the fine balance that makes our relationship work.

His recent, alarming improvement at Scrabble is quite another matter. That will have to be nipped in the bud.

Now, if you’re reading food blogs at all, it’s very likely that you’re the alpha cook of your household. (Unless, of course, you’re doing research in preparation for a coup d’état.) Please share your stories of culinary dictatorships and kitchen compromises–I would love to read them.


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COMMENTS / 25 COMMENTS

When someone is in my kitchen I feel as though a stranger is rifling through my underwear drawer.

When my fiance makes dinner it is exactly as you described - he feels The Eye. I eventually sit back and relax, letting myself enjoy the meal, despite the few things I would have done different. I definitely judge my own cooking much more harshly.

Well said!
turtle added this comment on September 22 2008 at 5:07 pm
You had me right up to salt the water. I’m an olive oil guy.

My girlfriend - my GIRLFRIEND- is wicked skilled on the grill.
WPoFD added this comment on September 22 2008 at 5:20 pm
My husband makes a “birds in a nest” with hashbrowns for dinner every Thursday night. The kids think he is Bobby Flay :-)

My big thing that makes me nuts is how when he cooks he explodes all over the kitchen. I “cook clean” and it makes me absolutely crazy to see him use 4 plates, 2 knives and God-knows-how-many bowls to make freaking “birds in a nest”.
Ezer K'negdo added this comment on September 22 2008 at 7:11 pm
Not that the birds aren’t delicious in their nest. Of course they are :-)
Ezer K'negdo added this comment on September 22 2008 at 7:11 pm
The alpha cook in my kitchen usually demotes me to line cook. I chop, and chop and chop. The few times he allowed me to take over the flame have been met with criticism and laughter. But, he always eats the food except for that one risotto disaster, and I blame the vegetarian guests for that puktastic meal.
atalie added this comment on September 22 2008 at 8:50 pm
Turtle: ooh, racy!

WPoFD: I’m not sure that the salt and oil are really interchangeable. Also, I’m not sure if adding oil does anything at all. But the salt–when I tasted pasta made by a chef-instructor of mine from Nice, I finally got the whole salt-your-water-liberally thing. It makes all the difference, and lets your sauce really sing. Re: your girlfriend…well, “When Significant Others Cook” didn’t have the same ring to it!

Ezer, please tell me what a bird in a nest is. As someone raised in Hong Kong, I have ample experience of bird’s nest, but something tells me that’s not what your husband is cooking on a weekly basis.

Atalie, blaming the vegetarian guests for everything up to and including the current finance crisis is a pretty sound policy.
Michele Humes added this comment on September 22 2008 at 9:49 pm
Although I am not a natural nor great cook, I have been surprised at being a better cook than most of the women I’ve dated. (I’m not bragging, honest.) I’d welcome an alpha-chef in the kitchen, but perhaps I only know how to find the women who turn up their noses at handling a knife.

Alas.
Brent added this comment on September 22 2008 at 11:13 pm
Kostia makes great kasha, particularly mannaya and grechnevaya (that’s cream-of-wheat and buckwheat porridge, for those who don’t know Russian). His other standbys are fried eggs, fried potatoes, and fried frozen vegetables, sometimes with a kotleta (like a big meatball or a small, fat hamburger, FTWDNR) or some cheese.

When I was a kid, my mom was supposedly the alpha cook, but she was terrible. We liked it much better when our dad cooked. Then it was breakfast for dinner - pancakes and sausage, eggs and toast - or soup and toasted cheese sandwiches (mmm, toasted cheese sandwiches, I could eat one right now). Eventually my mom went on strike and my sister and I learned to cook for ourselves.
Megan added this comment on September 23 2008 at 2:33 am
I do most of the cooking (and cleaning, ugh) in my apartment, while my boyfriend gets to reap the benefits. What I think would be a really romantic and relaxing dinner would be one that he has conceived from start to finish - planning, shopping, cooking, serving. But he usually only cooks to help me out, like grilling a steak that I marinated all day while I make the side dishes, or making fried eggs to go with the toast, bacon and tomato slices that I prepared for breakfast. When he tries to cook anything else, I’m like a backseat driver who can’t help criticizing/giving advice, and he has to shoo me out of the kitchen. And I have to ask - does your darling beloved do the dishes after you cook him dinner? I think it’s only fair, but I can’t get mine to spend even a few minutes cleaning up!!!
Julia added this comment on September 23 2008 at 9:12 am
“blaming the vegetarian guests for everything up to and including the current finance crisis is a pretty sound policy”

HAHAHAHA
turtle added this comment on September 23 2008 at 9:32 am
Brent, you’ve just given me an idea for a dating website: people would be paired according to culinary ability/aspirations. It would take the world by storm, don’t you think?

Megan, what makes Kostia’s kasha great? MFK Fisher used to put pheasant fat in hers…that’s pHeasant, not peasant…

Julia, sounds like you need to whip your boy into shape! Or move somewhere with a dishwasher, as we did. It’s the first time in my life that I’ve had one and it’s changed EVERYTHING.
Michele Humes added this comment on September 23 2008 at 9:54 am
Yes! I was just thinking last night that a dishwasher would make all the difference…but sadly it’s a luxury that’s so hard to find in NYC.
Julia added this comment on September 23 2008 at 10:02 am
My husband loves to cook, so when we first got married, I pictured the two of us in the kitchen, chopping and creating together. It never happens. We are both alpha cooks, so he banishes me from the room when he cooks. I try to get him to help me when I cook, but he usually disappears half way through a task and I can’t find him until the meal is on the table. Luckily, he loves my cooking, and I love his. We just can’t cook together.
Kody added this comment on September 23 2008 at 10:24 am
wow- you sound exactly like me! my boyfriend gets so mad at me when he’s cooking because i’m always sticking my nose in his business! and you’re totally right, the best way to get me out of there is with some alcohol and a few minutes of me double checking that the house isn’t going to erupt in flames.
kristen added this comment on September 23 2008 at 10:25 am
Actually I am terrified of cooking fish even though I’ve been cooking for years (just for my home nothing fancy) but my husband does a fantastic job without a recipe every time. It drives me mad! So he only cooks when I’m craving a good salmon or sword fish.
Faries added this comment on September 23 2008 at 10:35 am
the only times i’ve ever seen my boyfriend cook were when i wasn’t hungry too…
monika added this comment on September 23 2008 at 12:49 pm
I’m pretty much useless when it comes to cooking anything other than eggs and grilled cheese… lucky for me my boyfriend is far more talented and usually makes dinner. We met in college and albeit living in dorms with no access to anything but a microwave, he would make me a candle lit dinner at least once a month (usually salad and chicken pita sandwiches…) but it’s been a lot better since we moved into an apartment with a real kitchen; he’s constantly trying new recipes or finding ways to better what he already knows.

I am not entirely useless though… I am great at anything that requires baking, so I usually make dessert, or breakfast, or all that good snacking time in between :) The only interaction he and I have during those times is usually him coming over to ask if I need help and me giving him that evil look, then he usually curls up somewhere with a comic book. It works though.
Marine added this comment on September 23 2008 at 12:54 pm
“Bird in a Nest” is when you cut a hole out of the center of a slice of bread, spread butter on both sides of the bread, pop it into a heated fry pan, crack an egg in the hole in the bread and fry it together. Flip once, and everyone likes the yolks soft and oozy. It really is good (we buy good bread; grocery store crap doesn’t work).
Ezer K'negdo added this comment on September 23 2008 at 2:19 pm
And wow, I’ve never heard of the Chinese dish. Sounds . . . interesting?
Ezer K'negdo added this comment on September 23 2008 at 2:21 pm
I don’t think there’s anything that special about Kostia’s kasha, he just manages to get the consistency right. Maybe it’s the butter. Definitely nothing fancy like pheasant fat.

Actually, not long after we met, he said to me, “I made the best mannaya kasha in my dormitory. I don’t mind telling you that.”
Megan added this comment on September 23 2008 at 3:02 pm
Mine only cooks when he screws up majorly and leaves me in a huff. And the only dish he knows how to make is a salmon muniere. It’s delicious though, and it gets better every time.

Plus, it’s nice to see dinner ready on the table when you walk in, because you know that you won =)
ila added this comment on September 24 2008 at 12:22 pm
Unfortunately I have become the Alpha Cook. The BF cooks (I just do it with more frequency) but every time he does, he plays the incompetent man card. It could be something as simple as Pasta with jarred cream sauce and white beans (to which you can add nothing but the afore mentioned ingredients) and he will ask me a gazillion questions about it. And this happens every single time! The balance is that I refuse to do laundry (it has been over a year since I have seen a washing machine). I figure that makes us even.
CK added this comment on September 24 2008 at 2:24 pm
I have an old post somewhere called ‘Danny Cooks’: my hubby attempting poached eggs. Need I say more? He’s the engineer, I’m the cook. It’s pretty black and white. My boys, on the other hand, will know their way around a kitchen and make some girl very happy.
Aimee added this comment on September 26 2008 at 10:19 am
I don’t know that I’ve commented here before, so I feel bad jumping in with something critical. I really enjoy your blog, and if you were not such a critical language user yourself I don’t think I would even bother.

However:
“Post-feminism”?
The term implies that we have moved beyond the era when feminism was necessary. While we may share more household chores and bread-winning duties than in years past, we are certainly not beyond the scope of feminism.

Are we post-sexism and living in a society where men and women are afforded equal opportunities and equal pay?

Are we post-rape and sexual assault?

Are we post-domestic violence, and is domestic violence treated as the serious crime that it is?

Are we post-eating disorder and death by false images of what is acceptable and attractive?

Post-feminism also implies, to a certain extent, that because we are able to purchase whatever we want we are liberated- a stance that I strongly disagree with.

*sigh* I feel as though I just ranted, maybe without cause. Still, I think we need to consider what it means to live in a post-feminist society. I will be happy to claim it, once I feel as though feminism is no longer necessary.
Rachel added this comment on September 28 2008 at 11:39 pm
Rachel,

It had been my understanding that the term “post-feminism” described a range of viewpoints in reaction to established feminist discourse–not by any means the obsolescence of feminist discourse itself as we enter a state of gender utopia. Then my boyfriend told me that the latter definition was by far the most common in contemporary American usage and that I was at least somewhat of a ninny.

If you think I should have refined my language, I think that’s fair. But I do object to your long list of rhetorical questions: while the answer to every which one is undoubtedly “no”, I do not agree that they each necessarily refer to a “feminist” issue.

I do wish you had written me an email, though in doing so, I suppose, you would have missed out on the chance to edify my small audience. I say this not because I won’t tolerate being criticized openly (the only comments I delete contain blatant advertisements or racial slurs), but because I find it extremely uncomfortable to make my views on certain topics–rape, say, or eating disorders–known in a forum that is clearly designed for rather different ones.
Michele Humes added this comment on September 29 2008 at 8:38 am

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