I may be in the minority here, but I prefer the mousse-like texture of a no-bake cheesecake to the dry density of the classic New York version. My limited understanding of pastry tells me that the effect of slow baking at a very low heat is to draw out all the moisture from the cream cheese batter: the resulting cheesecake can be as dry and crumbly as a log of chèvre.

This “light” version of cheesecake is lighter in mouthfeel only. It still uses heavy cream and full-fat cream cheese–though I suppose the omission of egg yolks makes it marginally lower in calories–but the whipped, gelatin-bound texture feels cooler and airier on the tongue. The kitchen stays cooler, too, since the oven never has to come on, as does the brow of the cook, who is spared the drudgery of weighing and measuring ingredients.

In an idiotic move, I served this cheesecake on a hot August night at my housewarming buffet, and its fluffy charms disappeared at room temperature. When my guests were gone and wits restored, an ice-cold slice made a sumptuous, solitary breakfast.

I am providing a basic technique for a no-bake cheesecake, which can accommodate any number of flavor combinations. The biscuit base might be made of Ginger Snaps, Nilla wafers with ground cardamom, or peppermint Milanos, and the cream cheese can be flavored with the zest and juice of any citrus fruit, vanilla extract or a swirl of berry or mango coulis. (This time, I happened to use Nabisco Famous Chocolate Wafers, and a combination of lime juice and vanilla.) Taste as you go, and the method is foolproof.

Mousse Cheesecake–to fill a 9-inch springform tin

INGREDIENTS

9 oz dry, crumbly biscuits, any flavor
6 tbs butter, melted
2 8-oz bricks full-fat cream cheese
1 cup heavy cream
3/4 cup sugar (or to taste)
1 envelope powdered gelatin
2 tbs very hot water

METHOD

Crush the biscuits into a fine powder in a food processor (alternatively, place in a large ziploc bag and crush with a can of soup or a rolling pin). Transfer crumbs in a medium bowl and pour over melted butter; stir until crumbs are evenly moistened.

Grease the sides of a 9-inch springform tin and press buttered crumbs onto the base to make a crust. Use the base of a wine glass to ensure the crust is even. Refrigerate.

Meanwhile, place cream cheese, heavy cream, sugar and desired flavorings in a large bowl and whip to a fluffy mousse with an electric handheld beater. Taste and adjust flavorings.

Mix powdered gelatin and hot water in a small bowl. Add to cream cheese mixture and beat until thoroughly combined. Pour the filling over the chilled crust and refrigerate for at least four hours, preferably overnight. Use the edge of a sharp knife to ease the filling from the sides, and unmold. Garnish as desired.

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