There Is A Special Room In Hell

…for people who don’t RSVP. And that’s all I’m going to say about it, because a prolonged rant would be every bit as uncouth as THE BASTARDS WHO CAN’T SPARE EIGHT SECONDS OUT OF THEIR MISERABLE LIVES TO POLITELY DECLINE.

[deep breath]

And so to happier thoughts: those who did come to our housewarming party, those who came bearing gifts (serving plates! framed prints of seagulls!), and the all-important spread.

I made little brownies with cherry-vanilla icing; chicken liver pâté with bourbon; a gelatin-bound cheesecake on a chocolate biscuit crust and a dip made of white beans, mustard greens and fried bacon. There were olives, hot fennel salami, crudités, herbed crostini, figs in honey and honeydew melon. My friend brought lemon bars dusted in icing sugar, and I laid out a cheese platter with garlic-herb chèvre, a wedge of Cabrales and a whole Brillat-Savarin that I covered in caramel, which is a neat little trick that Martha Stewart showed me.

Nothing could be simpler. You make an amber-colored caramel out of plain old sugar (melt it on its own in a pan–no other ingredients necessary) and pour it over a nice, pungent triple cream, allowing it to run down the sides. It will cool into a brittle coating that shatters when sliced, giving a little texture and a lot of character to the gooey cheese.

Honeydew and honey-drizzled figs on my brand new serving plate, given to me just minutes before. Melon balls: hideous throwback to the 1970s or retro chic? It’s my party and I’ll employ outdated presentation techniques if I want to!

I’ve been eating a lot of Columbus Salame’s hot fennel salami recently. It’s a particularly fatty salami, rolled in fennel seed, and I’ve been cubing it, frying it to render some of the oil, and then sautéing chopped spinach and peas in the spicy, fennely fat. At our housewarming, I served slices of it with good olives in the bowl-and-charger set I had just received as a gift. On the cakestand to the right of the antipasti is a no-bake chocolate-lime cheesecake that I should get around to photographing and writing up, assuming I ever recover from this hangover.

I recommend that everyone make chicken liver pâté for their next party. I was worried that no-one would eat my boozy pâté because it looked like the Grey Loaf of Death–I hadn’t had time (or, let’s face it, the inclination) to go crazy with aspic and bell pepper diamonds–but I needn’t have been, because it was gobbled up immediately. There is no reason to buy pâté when chicken livers cost $1.20 a pound and a truly delicious one is so effortless to produce at home. I suppose bourbon costs considerably more than $1.20 a pound, but the upside to that is getting to drink the rest of the bottle.

Which is, apparently, what I did last night, as an insistent throbbing in my temples informs me.


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COMMENTS / 22 COMMENTS

Melon balls are very retro-chic. And you’re killing me with that caramel-coated Brillat-Savarin.
Diana added this comment on August 09 2008 at 2:38 pm
I hate Denver. Boo! Will you cook for my welcome back party????
atalie added this comment on August 09 2008 at 5:14 pm
Everything was delicious Michele! And gorgeous as always… thanks for a lovely evening!
Marisa added this comment on August 09 2008 at 7:32 pm
i totally would have rsvp’d. but my invite must have been lost in the mail/translation/yonkers. *smile*
um, by the way, melon balls are awesome. period. especially when served in a big ball made out of melon carcass.
krista added this comment on August 10 2008 at 1:25 am
I wish I was your neighbor. I would RSVP “yes” to any party at your place.
Megan added this comment on August 10 2008 at 4:48 am
how about i just permanent rsvp of “yes” to everything :)
sarah added this comment on August 10 2008 at 6:49 pm
I so know the feeling about RSVPing because a lot of people would RSVP to my parties, but never show up! In the end I would have too much food! It was sad, but hey it was always fun with the people who showed!
Jerry added this comment on August 10 2008 at 10:47 pm
I SO would have RSVP’d. Especially with the knowledge that all that rockin’ food is going to be there!
tot added this comment on August 10 2008 at 10:57 pm
How adorable! I definitely would have come for the spread. :)
Andrea added this comment on August 11 2008 at 2:10 am
Hey what’s your recipe for chicken pate? I’ve tried making at home and I found it WAY too ‘livery’. I heard soaking them in milk does the trick, what’s yours?
blueboy added this comment on August 11 2008 at 4:01 am
Could i suggest a theme for your next party ?
‘ Sorting out my Friends ‘ with an addendum - only friends need to RSVP.
The brillat savarin looks fantastic - can’t wait to try it
Jude added this comment on August 11 2008 at 4:27 am
hey! i came over via tastespotting, the caramel covered cheese looks divine, i’ll definitely be trying it! i share your annoyance for people who dont RSVP… i had a dinner party last month for 10, and one couple just didnt show up. it was really annoying and rude, i had the table set, the plates for the first course ready… definitely wont be inviting them again ;)
charlotte s added this comment on August 11 2008 at 7:49 am
I came through the Tastespotting link - loved the pic of the caramel camembert (and I have a whole round just waiting for something like this!). And now I really want to check out your chicken liver pate recipe!
Mila added this comment on August 11 2008 at 8:51 am
ahhh… people who do not RSVP! Thinking of it still brings back all too painful memories of trying to plan a wedding while not knowing who was going to show. Grrrr!
I’d come to one of your parties anytime! Looks delicious and sounds fun!:-)
Carrie of CKC added this comment on August 11 2008 at 8:54 am
Blueboy, I’m not sure it’s possible to eliminate the livery taste–the recipe I used is almost pure liver, and I happen to really like it. The recipe called for soaking the liver in strong liquor for 3-4 hours, which would probably go some way towards reducing liverishness. It’s also important to cook the livers until they’re still pink inside–if overcooked, the whole thing becomes grey, granular and bitter. Finally, make sure to trim any green bits, because those have come into contact with bile, which never tastes good!

The recipe I used comes from Martha Stewart’s Hors d’Oeuvres Handbook, and is as simple as it gets. Just butter, sage, shallots, bourbon and livers. Something with cream and Grand Marnier might take the edge off.

Thanks to all the RSVP sympathizers. I think some of it comes down to cultural and generational differences, what do you think? Having grown up in Hong Kong, I would never think of not replying to an invitation to someone’s home, but in New York it seems perfectly acceptable among twentysomethings to avoid committing to a party in case something better pops up. When I complain to my friends, all indications are that this sort of behavior is par for the course…but then so many of the parties thrown by the twentysomethings themselves involve eighty strangers and a large bucket of beer: it seems that hosts can be just as nonchalant as their guests.

Manners: seriously undervalued.
Michele Humes added this comment on August 11 2008 at 9:13 am
That is quite a spread and some sexy sexy cheese.Quite a spread too! And I can only hope that there is a special room in hell for people who can’t RSVP. Amen!
Joy the Baker added this comment on August 11 2008 at 3:56 pm
This is a beautiful table. I am bookmarking this page to inspire me for future events.
Mary added this comment on August 11 2008 at 5:17 pm
Wow, your table is gorgeous. Mine always look so haphazard–I must work on this. And please, please, please share the bean-greens-bacon spread recipe! My mouth is watering at the thought… mmm!
Amanda added this comment on August 12 2008 at 1:39 pm
Thanks for all the presentation comments! I did an internship with a party planner “to the stars” and she taught me a lot about tables. We would borrow things from Bloomingdales for photo shoots but a lot of it also came from Ikea. One of the biggest things I took away from her was the importance of varying heights: so, lots of cake stands and tall cylindrical containers. I cut crudites long and slim instead of short and stubby, and put them in 99-cent white flowerpots from Ikea.

Brooklyn residents: there is an awesome hidden close-out center on Court St where you can buy all sorts of amazing cheese boards and cake stands for next to nothing. Address is here. I got the white square cakestand for the mini-brownies for 7 bucks.

Amanda! Here’s the recipe for the beans/greans/bacon dip:

1.Drain a can of white beans and whizz it in a food processor with 1 tsp dried sage, the zest of 1 lemon, 2 tbs of lemon juice and plenty of good olive oil until you like the consistency.
2. Dice up 5 slices of bacon. Crisp it in its own fat.
3. Remove the bacon but keep the fat in the pan. Use it to sautee 2 cloves of garlic, minced, until soft, and then add 2 fistfuls of roughly chopped mustard greens to the pan until just wilted.
4. Fold garlic, greens and bacon into the bean puree.

It was pretty good but it lacked something. A splash of that Country Bob sauce you sent me did the trick.
Michele Humes added this comment on August 12 2008 at 2:27 pm
Hurrah! Thank you for the recipe! I can’t wait to try it. (I find that mustard or turnip greens always need something vinegar-y, so it makes sense that Country Bob would be a good addition.)
Amanda added this comment on August 12 2008 at 8:32 pm
I love the melon balls. They look so cool and refreshing and naked and lovely between bites of caramel covered cheese. I totally want a melon baller now. My gadget drawer just groaned pre-emptively.
rach added this comment on August 25 2008 at 2:51 am
Lovely looking brie in particular, but the whole spread is great. I am inspired to try harder on my holiday spreads now :-)
CourtJ added this comment on December 23 2008 at 1:22 pm

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