This is an awful lot of work for a salad, I admit. But I was in the mood for something elaborate. Like, bust-out-the-mandoline-and-immersion-blender/push-through-a-sieve/use-three-different-pots elaborate. And it was worth every dirty utensil.

After more than two weeks of stovelessness and four appointments with the gas company, I finally have a semi-functioning gas range. The latest technician was able to turn on the gas, but found the pressure in the pipes so dangerously low that he left a certificate prohibiting me to use it. Two independent contractors later, I have enough pressure to power one burner at a time; the final appointment, scheduled for tomorrow morning, should put an end to my kitchen woes.

One burner out of four is not ideal, but it’s still a direct heat source. It was time to cook.

I’m delighted to report that my bundle of asparagus made it through its eight-day crisper bin ordeal relatively unscathed, thanks to a reader’s suggestion that I essentially treat it like flowers and keep it in water. After a bit of peeling (wholly unnecessary for such young spears, but I think they look so elegant peeled) and two minutes in boiling salted water, the asparagus was left to cool in ice water while I got to work on a sweet and sour double pepper sauce.

The pepper emulsion came out beautifully piquant, but I wanted an earthier flavor in there, too, to anchor the dish. So I shaved nearly half a head of garlic on my mandoline and slowly crisped the slices in olive oil.

I’ve written about my crisping method before, which works for all members of the allium family (shallot rings, slivered leeks, you name it). The key is to start with cold oil and maintain a low heat throughout: browning will be even and bitterness minimized.

I could just eat these by the fistful.

Cold Poached Asparagus With Red Pepper Emulsion And Garlic Chips–Serves 2 as a side dish or 4 as an appetizer

INGREDIENTS

1 lb. asparagus, trimmed of woody stalks (optional: use a vegetable peeler to lightly peel the bottom third of each stalk)
Salted water for boiling

For the emulsion:
2 roasted red bell peppers (either fresh or jarred), peeled, seeded and diced
1 small onion, minced
1 tbs sugar
1/2 tsp smoked paprika
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1/4 cup + 2 tbs olive oil
Salt and pepper

For the garlic chips:
5-6 large cloves of garlic, sliced very thin on a mandoline
Olive oil for deep frying

METHOD

Bring salted water to a boil in a large pot, and cook asparagus until just tender. Drain and chill in ice water.

For the emulsion:
Heat 2 tbs olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Gently sweat bell peppers and onion until onion is translucent. Add sugar, paprika and red wine vinegar; allow liquid to reduce by half.

Remove from heat. Transfer to blender, add remaining olive oil and puree. Push emulsion through a sieve. Check seasoning. Chill.

For the garlic chips:

Place the garlic slices in a small saucepan and cover with olive oil. Place over a very low flame and allow the oil to slowly come to a boil. When garlic chips are golden brown, drain and place on paper towels to absorb excess oil.

To serve:

Drizzle emulsion over chilled asparagus, in individual servings or on large platter. Sprinkle with garlic chips.

• BROWSE
• « Why I Deserved A Glass Of Wine At 2:30pm, Or, Living Without Maillard
• » Salade Niçoise À Ma Façon

Related Posts

• Three-Allium Soup For The Soul: A French Onion How-To
• Down-Home Divine
• I Didn’t Think Such A Thing Was Possible