Cauliflower And Bresaola “Carpaccio” With Parsley Oil

I’m sure I am opening myself up to many additional pieces of hatemail and accusations of “zenophobia” [sic], but I’m laying bare last weekend’s Iowa City food diaries anyway, with the ground-breaking observation that Midwesterners eat not-so-great food, and too much of it. (To be fair, I started eating trash on the morning of my departure, so the first two meals listed here were consumed at airports in New York City and Atlanta, respectively. My rationale: in a 24,000-calorie weekend, what’s an extra 2000?)

Friday:
Breakfast:
Sausage, egg & cheese Croissan’Wich from Burger King.
Lunch: Fried chicken Caesar at Paschal’s.
Dinner: The Worst Tacos I Have Ever Tasted Outside Of The United Kingdom–in the UK, “fajita” is often pronounced FADGE-it-aah, which pretty much sets the tone for Tex-Mex–at Panchero’s.

Saturday:
Brunch:
The Mexicali Alley at Micky’s:a pizza-sized tortilla enclosing a six-egg omelet, black beans, grilled chicken and American cheese, served with a walloping dollop of sour cream and three potatoes’ worth of hash browns. I ate half of it, and then nothing else for the next nine hours.
Dinner: Pork-themed wedding. Iowa’s own La Quercia prosciutto to start; loin and center-cut chops to continue. Chex Mix, Maytag blue, baked beans and potato salad throughout. There was cake, but there wasn’t room. (Pictures of the feast, and of me feasting.)

Sunday:
Brunch:
The previous day’s Mexicali Alley was so bad it was good. I ordered it again.
Dinner: Fried chicken sandwich and seasoned fries at Checkers.

What I’m trying to say, boys and girls, is this: for the next few days, I’m eating light.

The distorted reputation and misguided treatment of certain vegetables is one of my perennial peeves. (Longtime readers of this blog will already have encountered my acerbic denouncements of crimes against cruciferae.) I’ll say this for Iowans: they respect iceberg lettuce. And why shouldn’t they? A fresh, crisp head of iceberg, finely shredded and tossed in ponzu, is one of my favourite things to eat. Yet iceberg gets no play on the East Coast, where a “side salad” means insipid baby greens (droopy leaves of young spinach, romaine and mizuna) overwhelmed by balsamic vinaigrette. Just as inexplicably, most people will boil cauliflower, puree it or bury it in a congealed cheese sauce before they’ll eat it raw, and then only with ranch or blue cheese dip. I, for one, love the little albino trees uncooked, their mild, nutty sweetness intact.

I’ve put thin sheets of raw cauliflower front and center in my bastardized carpaccio. The marinated cauliflower does the work of shaved parmesan, and air-cured bresaola stands in–as it often does, in Tuscany–for raw beef.

To slice the cauliflower thin, you’ll need a mandoline, a Japanese slicer or that elusive combo of sharp knife and sure hand. The stalks are easily shaved, but if you want to keep the flowers uncrumbled, you can’t go paper-thin.

Allow the cauliflower cross-sections to bathe for a few minutes in a mixture of vinegar and good olive oil. Drain and assemble on a thin bed of bresaola. Drizzle with parsley oil, made simply by blanching a bunch of fresh parsley in boiling water and whirring it in a blender with some more of that good olive oil. You can strain out the solids, but I rather like the way they look and taste. (This method works for basil and cilantro, too.)

You might want to crack some black pepper over it, but skip the salt. Unless it’s dinner-time and your palate is numbed by wine, the bresaola is plenty salty enough for the cauliflower.

A slice or two of rye bread, and that’s lunch.


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COMMENTS / 8 COMMENTS

A few things: One, how did you manage a weekend in the midwest without eating jello? That is a feat. Two: The cauliflower dish is creepy. I love cauliflower, especially when prepared Indian (red dot, how is that for xenophobia???) style, but that dish scares my eyes yet delights my palate. Thirdly: What constitutes good olive oil? I worked at an Italian restaurant that only served Spanish olive oil, and lately I’ve been only using Greek olive oil…blog about that, please.
atalie added this comment on Jun 05 08 at 3:57 pm
Good olive oil is as good as you can afford and tastes of something.

That said, I sautee things and make all my salad dressings with vegetable oil.

TJ wanted to know about the jello, too. I don’t know what to say. I also feel cheated.

Can we have either one comment misspelling my first name OR one comment telling me my dish looks creepy instead of BOTH? Thanks.
Michele Humes added this comment on Jun 05 08 at 4:06 pm
Dear Misspell:

I regret to inform you that I am unable to grant your above request due to circumstances beyond my control. You see, Ms. Humidor, due to a frontal lobe injury suffered whilst trying to recreate your “creepy,” recipe I have lost the ability to spell proper nouns. I do hope you understand my unique situation.

PS Ask jeff for his mom’s jello and carrot recipe.
atalie added this comment on Jun 05 08 at 4:11 pm
Understandably, most people and places throughout this great country of ours simply call a pork chop a pork chop. BUT, when one is gnawing on an 1-1/2″ thick center cut pork chop, it is called an Iowa Chop.

http://www.iowapork.org/pork_checkoff/consumer/iowachop.html

I think it’s time the Porkettes (along with the Iowa Pork Queen) get back to work promoting this wonderful Iowan treat!

As for the jello…my aunt was banned from bringing her savory layered pretzel and marshmello casserole!
brian added this comment on Jun 05 08 at 5:00 pm
Oink.
Michele Humes added this comment on Jun 05 08 at 5:11 pm
The cauliflower sheets look like paper cut-outs. That said, I would still eat them.

Your Iowa weekend reminds me of my trips to Florida.
AppetiteforChina added this comment on Jun 06 08 at 1:44 pm
As an native Iowan, I would urge you to make the trip to Des Moines to eat. Thing is, there is a large Laotian and Vietnamese community there, as well as plenty of Latin Americans who all serve of great food. Or.. drive 3 hours to Chicago!
dougie added this comment on Jun 18 08 at 9:24 am
Oh Michele! I am a native Iowan transplanted to NYC and working in the food world. I was just talking about the pleasures of Iowan food by describing a chex mix my mom used to make. There really was no equivalent out here. I made it for the superbowl and called it “Iowa Hick Mix.” It was a hit! We may not eat healthy, but we enjoy our eating. Thanks for the lovely blog!
Alison added this comment on Jun 18 08 at 4:17 pm

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