Archives:
- Russian Nostalgia-Fest, Part II: Pork and Cilantro Dumplings, and “Korean” Carrot Salad
I wore three-inch gold stilettos to see Mumiy Troll at Webster Hall, and I was still underdressed. By a factor of three or four. It’s not that American girls don’t want to look hot for their favourite band, but their pre-show preening tends to aim for a sort of calculated dishevelment. Russian girls, on the […]
- Russian Nostalgia-Fest, Part I: Borscht
There are many schools of borscht. Some hold that it should be hot, rich and meaty; others that it is a cool concoction for summer, made only with vegetable stock. Polish kitchens send it to the table with the sour cream already mixed in, so that the soup is the exact colour of Pepto Bismol. […]
- My Favourite Izakaya
I am obsessed with Ariyoshi’s fried chicken. It comes floating in ponzu, so you need to act fast before the crust goes mushy. I think about this dish all the time. It’s fried in smaller pieces than Southern-style chicken, so you get a higher crunch-to-flesh ratio. And the thinner batter allows the chicken’s own skin […]
- A Silly Thing That I Do
I have a menu board in my house, and when my friends come to dinner, I use it.
Unfortunately, since I bought the rusty thing second-hand at a restaurant relic store on Atlantic Avenue, it comes with a frustratingly incomplete set of letters. (Letters that, incidentally, I had to soak in bleach for two whole days […]
