I couldn’t stand the scent of lavender when I was younger. I was always shocked to read in Cosmopolitan–one of the factoids they periodically re-run in the “developments in science” section, essentially “advances in mascara” and “fruit X has been found to contain this month’s elixir of life”–that lavender (along with pumpkin and vanilla) is one of the scents that has been found to most trigger arousal in men. To me, lavender meant the tins of novelty seasoning (”Provence in a box”) and stale sachets for your lingerie drawer sold in every souvenir shop between Toulon and Aix. It meant the overpowering smell of a summer drive through the south of France. (Lavender fields + motion sickness = bad news.) It most definitely did not mean sex.
Cooked, though, it’s a different story. When dried lavender is used to infuse a custard, its acrid (to me) top note disappears, and the perfume that remains is deep and mellow, less Provençal than Eastern.
I once travelled to catch the last few minutes of a zydeco band with a dozen miniature versions of these cream-pots in my handbag. Somehow I ended up giving them away to drunken strangers, who seemed to enjoy them very much.
(For some lovely garnish ideas–the flavour of caramel is fantastic with these little creams–see David Lebovitz’s guide to caramel.)
Lavender Pots de Crème–Makes 8 2-oz ramekins
INGREDIENTS
1 cup heavy cream
1 cup milk
6 egg yolks
1/3 cup sugar
1/2 vanilla bean
2 tbsp dried lavender
METHOD
Preheat oven to 325F.
Place milk and cream into a heavy-based pot. Scrape vanilla bean and add both seeds and pod to the cream mixture. Add the dried lavender and slowly bring liquid to the boil.
While the cream is coming to a boil, whisk the egg yolks and sugar in a large bowl until sugar is dissolved.
Once boiled, remove cream from heat. Strain. Pour a small amount into the egg-sugar mixture, whisking immediately to prevent “scrambled eggs”. Add the rest slowly, whisking constantly, until fully incorporated.
Pour the liquid into ramekins. Transfer to baking dish, and pour hot water from the tap around the ramekins until about two-thirds submerged.
Bake until sides are just set and centre is still wobbly, about 30-40 minutes. Cool at room temperature, and then cover with cling film and refrigerate for at least 3 hours.
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